![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Step 5: Bring the Condensate Pipe Through the Soffit On completion, you must add lagging to the trap and the vent pipe below to prevent the condensate from freezing. Make sure you fit the trap the right way up – there should be an arrow on the side indicating the direction air will flow. The vent pipes will sit approximately 40mm into the trap, leaving a gap of 25mm. When doing the final fix, apply glue to the ends of the pipes. Push the lower vent pipe back up again to fit securely in the trap (you may need help with this)ĭoing a dry fit before the final fix is good practice.If your vent pipe goes straight up through the roof with no flexible connector, follow the steps below: Note: Some traps have a removable collar top and bottom, so always follow the manufacturer’s instructions on fitting. If you have a flexible pipe above the vent pipe, it should be easy to lift it, fit the trap onto the pipe from the extractor fan, and then insert the upper vent pipe into the top of the trap. If this isn’t the case, and you’re starting from scratch, you’ll need additional materials from the ones listed below and possibly the help of a roofer and an electrician to wire up the fan. This second trap will prevent foul odours from entering the condensation trap.įor this exercise, we’ll assume that the fan is in place and the pipework passes through the roof with a vent terminal fitted. Pro Tip: If you connect the condensate pipe to the soil stack, you’ll need to install another trap, known as a running trap, in the pipe run. This model is suitable for 100mm Ø pipes, so check your pipe size before buying. You can form the trap using a U-bend, but it’s only suitable for small horizontal runs.įor vertical runs, you need an in-line trap, such as this one from Vortice. These systems also require a condensation trap. Many modern homes are fitted with Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR) systems to deal with ventilation in air-tight houses. In this DIY guide, I’ll share my experience and show you how to fit a condensation trap in 5 simple steps.Ĭondensation traps are required on ventilation ducts wherever ducting passes through an unheated space, such as a loft.Įxtractor fans in bath or shower rooms, where warm moist air passes through a pipe to the outside, are particularly prone to condensation. To resolve this issue, I fitted a condensation trap. I suddenly realised I had a condensation problem, not a leak! Rechecking the bathroom, I noticed water dripping from the fan. I checked the loft, and the roof looked fine, but I remember noticing how cold it was. Also be aware that aluminum (rather than copper) wiring requires special handling and any electrical work involving this type of wiring should be undertaken by a professional.Some years ago, I fitted a fan in my bathroom ceiling, which discharged through the roof via a plastic pipe.Ī few days later, I noticed a constant drip and a puddle of water on the bathroom floor, so I presumed there was a leak.If you don't feel confident about doing the wiring yourself, don't hesitate to call in a licensed electrician to install the fan or simply inspect your work when you're done.Place the wires back in the electrical splice unit and reattach the cover.Wrap the bare copper wire around the green grounding clip or screw and tighten to secure. Twist the same color wires together (usually white to white and black or red to black) and add the connectors.Strip 5⁄ 8 inch (1.6 cm) back from each of the wires on both the fan cable and the electrical cable you inserted earlier. Open up the housing unit and pull out the fan wires from the electrical splice unit.Make sure to read the manufacturer's instructions and double check that the power is off before proceeding. ![]() Depending on the type of fan, you may need to wire the connections from the attic or from the bathroom. Wire the connections in the housing unit. ![]()
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